The journey began the moment I booked the flights—or perhaps it was the second I started packing, an increasingly common ritual I look forward to before any great adventure. Either way, I was soon baking under the heat of the Moroccan sun as excitement and trepidation gripped me. I had come to tackle three of Morocco’s tallest giants: Jebel Toubkal (4,167m) and the twin peaks of Mt. Ouanoukrim—Timzguida (4,089m) and Ras (4,083m). If the sound of this adventure appeals to you, stay tuned and I’ll share with you how you can embark on a similar journey yourself!
The Beginning of the Adventure
The heatwave that gripped Morocco added an unexpected element of surprise as we ventured from the airport to the centre of Marrakech, where I’d be spending my first night. The 40°C+ temperatures felt suffocating but they also heightened the sense of adventure as I explored the Moroccan bazaars, being careful to avoid the snakes determined to escape their owners in the market square. It was a reminder that the world doesn’t always cater to comfort, but it does offer challenges that awaken something deep inside.
After the first night, these bazaars became an all-too-soon distant memory as the chaos of Marrakech’s streets faded as we drove out of the city and toward Imlil, a small village nestled in the foothills of the Atlas mountain range. There, we met our guides and the rest of the team. The sense of camaraderie was immediate; five strangers, all united by a shared desire for adventure. After checking gear and finalizing permits, we were on our way, and the journey began.
Toubkal: The First Ascent
While the 40c+ heat roasted our bodies, the initial route with its wide paths passing through Berber villages, offered a false sense of calm before the steep, relentless climb ahead. This calm was soon displaced as we progressed through our 13 kilometers hike, slowly gaining altitude and minute by minute getting closer toward our first destination: the Toubkal Refuge at 3,200 meters.
As we ascended, the temperature dropped from the blistering heat of Marrakech to a cool 10-15°C as my team and I had to dig out our fleeces. Just as our legs began to feel the day’s effects, the large stone structure of the refuge began looming in the distance. The air felt thinner, but the altitude wouldn’t show it’s true effects until later that night: headaches, slight dizziness, and fatigue would set in as we’d struggle to rest and gain any resemblance of sleep.
That night, we never expected altitude sickness to claim one of our team members. Somewhere around 3am in the morning, we were awoken by our feet being shaken and a bright white light as one of the guides advised us that one of our team members wasn’t coping with the altitude and had to be taken off the mountain – We would instead set off in an hour with another group to do Toubkal – Not the twin summits of Ouanoukrim and Timzguida was originally planned. Though we were concerned, our team mate had assured us they were okay and to press on with our new goal and not to worry. (Rest assured, they were actually okay!)
Summit Day: Reaching Toubkal
The next morning, we set out in the cold, pre-dawn hours, bundled up against the biting wind. Crossing icy patches of snow without crampons, we made our way up the mountain, carefully avoiding the risk of slipping on the slick terrain.
The climb was grueling. The cold gnawed at us, and the air became thinner with each step. My hands, even with gloves, were frozen, but one of my teammates—undeterred by the cold—sported no gloves at all. “Credit to the colds of Scotland!” she quipped, unfazed by the drop in temperature.
Step by step, we reached the summit of Toubkal. We had missed the sunrise, but it didn’t matter. Standing atop the highest peak in North Africa, the exhaustion melted away in the face of the grandeur that stretched out before us. It wasn’t just the physical achievement that made this moment so powerful; it was the realization that we’d begun exploring our limits.
The Twin Summits
After our conquering of Toubkal, the true challenge still lay ahead: the twin summits of Ouanoukrim. This route was far less traveled, offering a quieter, much more solitary experience.
The ascent to Timzguida and Ras was steep, with sections requiring careful scrambling and steady hands over the ice. The wind had picked up, making the cold even more biting. The higher we climbed, the more the altitude affected us, each step feeling heavier, like the mountain was challenging us to go further.
We reached the first summit—Timzguida—and it felt like a world away from the crowds at Toubkal. The wind was fierce, and the landscape seemed even more vast and remote. From there, it was a steep descent followed by another exhausting climb up to Ras, the second summit.
It was here, at the summit of Ras, that the journey began to feel like it was winding down. The sense of achievement was undeniable, but I could also feel the weight of the past days’ struggles. The adventure was coming to an end, but I knew the lessons from this journey would stay with me.
Reflections on the Journey
As we descended to the refuge for the final time and then down to Imlil to meet our teammate who had descended early, I felt a genuine sense of accomplishment. The mountains had tested us—physically, mentally, emotionally—and in every challenge, we had pushed through.
The climb wasn’t just about reaching summits. It was about the journey: the physical strain, the moments of doubt, the quiet camaraderie among the team. It was the realization that these mountains, with their rugged beauty, demanded respect but also offered something transformative in return.
By the time we reached Imlil and reunited with our friend, I knew that this adventure would remain etched in my memory. The Atlas Mountains had not just shown me how far I could go, but also how much more the world has to offer, waiting to be explored.
Organising my participation in this adventure was actually an easy affair, it was offered as part of a packaged booking with adventure company Much Better Adventures! A perfect way to push your limits in the outdoors with minimal preparation, if such an adventure appeals to you, I’d have no hesitation in recommending them to start your journey!
