The Arctic Circle has always held an undeniable allure. With relatives based in Stavanger, I’d spent a fair bit of time exploring Norway’s southern landscapes, but I had always wondered—what is it like to experience the real heart of the North? What’s it like to see a land dominated by snow and ice, where temperatures dip to -20°C and below? This fascination planted the seed for my next adventure, one that would push my limits and fulfil an interest I’ve held for a long time.
Enter Finland’s Korouoma Canyon. Tucked in the remote municipality of Posio, the canyon forms part of a bedrock fracture zone in the Arctic Circle that is hundreds of millions of years old. Most famously, this canyon sports three frozen waterfalls in the winter: Jaska Jokunen (Charlie Brown), Mammuttiputous (Mammoth Fall), and Ruskea Virta (Brown River).
What makes them so special? These are the three largest ice falls in the country.
My goal? I wanted to conquer one of these.
With this, the vast and rugged terrain of the Korouoma Canyon became the backdrop of one of the most transformative outdoor experiences I’ve ever had.
Into the White Silence
The journey began with a minibus ride through the pristine expanse of Lapland. As we ventured deeper into the Arctic, I couldn’t help but marvel at the blanket of snow covering everything. Pine trees stood draped in thick layers of white, their branches bowing gracefully under the weight of it all, while the wind swept over the landscape in soft whispers. The entire scene felt like stepping into a snow-covered dream—part wilderness, part wonderland.
As we pulled into our base at the local ski resort, the sky painted in shades of orange from the setting sun, it felt like we’d crossed into another world entirely. After a quick briefing, we were led to our log cabin—a cozy, rustic retreat complete with a sauna, where we would find solace after a day of outdoor adventures.
Our guide, sensing the chill in the air, had pre-set the sauna to ensure it would be ready and waiting for us upon our return.
In preparation for the evening’s adventure, we bundled up in our warmest layers, then stepped into the night. The winds picked up as we ventured into the snow, the temperature plunging to -28°C with the windchill. As we huddled around a crackling fire, cups of hot blueberry juice in hand, our guide shared folklore about the Northern Lights—a mystical phenomenon once believed to be the work of a mythical “fire fox,” whose swift tail ignited sparks across the night sky.
Visibility had dropped to nearly zero with the snowfall, so photography was off the table, but in a way, that felt perfect. There’s something about being immersed in that cold, surrounded by nothing but snow and dark skies, that makes you feel truly alive.
Gear Testing, Wilderness Living
The following morning, we set out for a hike in Phya National Park, snowshoes on and spirits high.
The term “winter wonderland” never felt more fitting. Everywhere I looked, the landscape was frozen in time—silent, still, and impossibly beautiful. One of the key lessons I learned here was Finland’s commitment to connecting people with the outdoors, even in the dead of winter. The park is dotted with campfire rings and stocked woodsheds, where visitors can light a fire, warm up, and truly embrace the winter wilds.
It’s that kind of access to nature, to the wild, that fuels a deeper connection to the outdoors. And it was the perfect introduction to the next part of our journey: Ice climbing.
First Steps Up the Ice Wall
At the Phya Ski Resort, a towering ice climbing wall awaited us. Our guide led us through a few basic techniques—how to hold our axes, how to step with our crampons—and soon enough, we were practicing on the wall, each of us taking turns, challenging ourselves with every ascent. The feeling of gripping the ice with an axe, kicking in your crampons, and scaling your way up was both humbling and exhilarating.
As each session wore on, my fingers began to feel the effects of the cold. It’s easy to forget just how quickly your body loses heat when you’re using your hands and arms for hours on end. That’s when the lesson came home: outdoor adventure isn’t just about strength; it’s about endurance, preparation, and respect for the elements.
The Ice Falls of Korouoma Canyon
The real highlight of this trip, however, was the moment we descended into the Korouoma Canyon the following day. We woke early, gearing up for a full day of ice climbing along the frozen waterfalls that define this landscape. Temperatures hovered around -13°C, but with little to no wind, it felt relatively warm. The air was crisp, biting at my face as we made our way toward the first of the three great ice falls: Mammuttiputous, “Mammoth Fall.”
The climb was challenging but rewarding. As I dug my ice axes into the towering wall of ice, the rhythm of each movement felt like a dance between mind, body, and nature. I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of accomplishment each time I reached a new height—particularly after a small mishap where I lost grip on one axe, but managed to regain it in a desperate scramble. That was the magic of ice climbing: the focus, the mental clarity, and the way every move tests your limits.
The views from the top were staggering—an endless sea of white stretching out in every direction. Below, the valley was covered in a blanket of snow, the trees encased in ice, standing as silent sentinels against the cold.
But it wasn’t all smooth climbing.
One of my teammates, too, had an unexpected moment of adventure—he chipped into the ice, revealing a burst of frigid, flowing water that soaked him through. His jacket froze solid by the time he made it back down! It’s the kind of moment that only adds to the story, though, and luckily, he also had a spare jacket!
Rewarding the Body, Rewarding the Soul
After a day spent scaling ice and battling the cold, we returned to Phya for the ultimate reward: a sauna session, followed by a quick dip into a hole cut into the ice sheet of a frozen lake. The contrast between the searing heat of the sauna and the bitter cold of the lake was almost spiritual. It felt like we had earned our place in the wild.
As I reflect on this journey, I realize that it wasn’t just the physical challenges of ice climbing or braving the Arctic cold that made it unforgettable—it was the way this experience deepened my connection to the outdoors. The Arctic, with its pristine wilderness and relentless beauty, left an indelible mark on me.
For anyone considering stepping into the wild for the first time, I say this: find something that excites you. Find something that inspires you. The adventure you’ll discover won’t just be about conquering mountains or battling the cold; it’s about finding your place in the natural world, pushing your limits, and becoming part of something much bigger than yourself.
So, gather your gear, step into the wild, and let the untamed landscape show you what it means to feel truly alive. If this adventure resonates with you, don’t miss out—explore the opportunity to make it your own here!